Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to discover these tales and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
